Kawardha is the natural entry point for visitors coming from Madhya Pradesh (Kanha or Pench).

This stunning 20 th century palace, made of Italian marble and stone, was b uilt in the 1930's by Maharaj Dharamraj Singh. An isolated, tranquil retreat set in landscaped gardens amidst the Maikal range of hills, it is still home to the Royal family (and their dogs!). The current prince and his wife take an active interest in running the property, and are glad to take visitors out on walks and visits to the local temple.

The elegant building is a mix of Italian, Mughal and colonial styles of architecture. Inside are grand staircases and sweeping verandahs perfect for reading, relaxing or having a quiet cup of tea. The main Durbar Hall, a magnificent domed room with Corinthian pillars, is open to all. The top floor, private residence of the royal family, is out of bounds to guests. Accomodation is in the form of 6 spacious (twin) rooms with very high ceilings and cool marble floors. The rooms retain the original, traditional furnishings, and have large attached bathrooms, with running hot and cold water. Some rooms have large dressing rooms that can accommodate extra beds.

Cuisine (both vegetarian and non vegetarian) served is local (breakfasts are western). Meals are usually in the large dining room, but can also be arranged in other areas if so desired. Before dinner, everyone gathers for drinks in the bar, which has a zebra striped marble floor. Beer and all forms of alcoholic drinks are available.

While you are here, do try the day walks or an overnight trek, and don't forget to visit one of the tribal villages nearby. The Rashakrishna and Bhoremdeo group of temples nearby, dating back to the 8 th and 9 th centuries, are in the Chandela and Orissan styles. Interestingly, the carvings here make Khajuraho's erotic carvings seem tame!

The palace is open from 1 September to 30 April.

Recommended stay: Minimum 3 nights 2 days, one for walking and one for visiting temples.

This small (3 guest bedrooms) palace was originally the Resident's House in the British Raj, but is now the Royal Family's main residence. Opened just a few years ago, it is cosy and personal. The family that runs it will be delighted to show you around their farm and the town, or take you walking in the surrounding Keshkal Hills. E very one eats together in the main dining room.

The bedrooms are large and spacious, with high ceilings and attached bathrooms and dressing rooms. No bathtubs, though - only showers! The rooms are furnished in the local style, using original palace furniture.

While you are here, go walking in the Muria tribal territory or drive out to the Dudhawa Reservoir at Sikanadi where the avi fauna is good and the views stun. Visit the potters and bell-metal makers at Kondagaon in Bastar.

The palace is open from 1 September to 30 April. There is a colorful local festival every year, and this is the perfect time to visit.

Believe it or not, you can walk right off the street and into this 70 year old palace, situated at one end of the main street. The erstwhile Royal Family still resides in one part, while another is being used as a medical college. Currently, there are no residential facilities here, but lunch can be arranged. There is a weekly haat (market) here on Sundays.